Archive for the ‘Photography’ Category

I wrote this journal back in Oct ’11 soon after my trip when my excitement was yet to die down (it still has not died down as I dream of this place all the time). Shared with a just a few people so far. Going back to the Journal and reminiscing (as the excitement builds all over again for the upcoming trip in 9 weeks) made me think I should get this Journal out. Publishing this for the first time. Hope this inspires you to go to this Paradise..

– Vijay Ramanathan, June 2011



Wildlife Paradise

The Africa Attraction

Predators & their Prey

Lions in Heat

Cheetah with a Gazelle Kill

The Cheetah Hunt

Memorable Moments


Wildlife Paradise

Teen Lion

My emotions were on overdrive the entire week. A state of heightened anticipation – a natural high that I still seem to be mulling in and refusing to come back to this so called civilization that we belong to. The Mara is an endless expanse of savannah. Miles of grasslands on all sides. Nature’s bounty playing out the food chain and the circle of life. Carnivores hunting for daily food. Scavengers feeding on left overs. One can see carcasses lying all over the place. Herbivores go about their business of feeding over the grasslands – the unlucky ones fall prey & end up as a meal to the higher species. An immense setup that is hard to explain over words and requires one to experience in person. A pristine Reserve that holds nature’s wonders in an environment that one is fortunate to experience in this modern time. Hopefully I will be able to take you to this place with this journal as I recollect key experiences.

The Africa Attraction

No trip to the Masai Mara or other parts of Africa is complete without the Big 5 which comprises of the Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino & Cape Buffalo. A set of mammals that came to be known as such based on the degree of difficulty to hunt as opposed to their size. Every one of them are spectacular in their own way. The photographic opportunities were immense, partly due to the roll of the dice working in our favor on this particular week. There was no better place than Mara to witness wildlife behavior – be it kills or how they tend to their young or how they mate.

The Africa Attraction

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Predators come big and small & they hunt down big and small creatures. On occasion, even elephants and giraffes fall prey while the smaller ungulates make up daily meals.  Predators are aggressive and opportunistic. Over land and in water. It is truly a survival of the fittest. Lions form the top of the food chain and hunt in packs. Leopards are secretive and sometimes haul their prey on to trees to save it from others. Cheetahs depend on bursts of speed to trip their prey down to kill them to make up for their size. Hyenas are quite the opportunists and take away kills from predators big and small. At the same time they are quite capable of killing and fending for themselves. Crocs  wait in water to get crossing wildebeests & zebras. Jackals go for smaller creatures in order to feed themselves. Scavengers such as Vultures and Marabou Storks clean up the carcasses and prevent decay and infection in the area. All other herbivores feast on the grasslands for their daily sustenance. For prey, being in the wrong place at the wrong time leads to immediate death. Across species, new borns, cubs and calves suffer a very high mortality rate and are lucky to see it to adulthood.


Around 1.3M wildebeestsmigrate to the Masai Mara and cross the river in search of greener pastures. During season they offer food in abundance to the predators.


The Thomson gazelleis smaller than the Grant’s Gazelle & is the favorite meal of the Cheetahs.


Impalas– Another beautiful species from the antelope family with a lovely rufous/golden coat. Also seen in good numbers.


Zebras – These horse/asses relative with distinct stripes also form a significant portion of ungulates in the Reserve.



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Mating Behavior On arrival at the Mara, for the first day and a half, we observed lion mating sessions for hours on end. The routine was fairly simple & cyclic.

Sleep Lions normally sleep 20 hours a day. In between mating, they will sleep for 10-15 minutes and get back to the job in hand.

Nuzzle There is a fair bit of nuzzling happening between the lion & lioness.

MateAfter every short bout of mating, there are big and small grunts and friendly snapping, snarling & biting at each other (lion’s versions of hickeys I suppose :))

Cheetah with a Gazelle Kill

This cheetah had it’s fill to make sure it did not hungry for another day at least

On the second day afternoon, we came across a cheetah which had just killed a Thomson’s Gazelle. We saw the cheetah devour the gazelle for almost 1 hour and 20 minutes till it could eat no more. Clearly, it wanted to eat as much as it could, so it does not have to hunt the next day. Never seen a bigger stomach bulge like this! In the meanwhile there was a big  buildup of vultures of all kinds in the neighboring trees. Then they started assembling closer to the kill. Marabou Storks started landing up. The cheetah took plenty of breaks in between its meal. Finally, the cheetah walks away almost after spending an hour and 30 minutes with its kill. The vultures and the storks pounce in on the remains and it was amazing to see the feeding frenzy. The bigger Lappet faced vulture came in late to the party and bullied its way inside. In a matter of minutes, it was all over. The Marabou Stork did away with the spine – the last remains of what was left!

Feeding Frenzy – Vultures & Marabou Storks polish off the remains of this Gazelle..

The Cheetah Hunt

We could not believe what we were witnessing.. a cheetah going after Tommys

We crossed into the Mara Triangle on the 5th day of our stay. Kalyan had shot 3 Cheetah cubs with its mother the previous week. On our way to the Serena, we went to see if the 3 Cheetah cubs were still on the South side of the Triangle with their mother and we found them! A bush with just enough shade was providing refuge for the adorable young cubs. Since the light was too harsh we decided to return that evening.

After checking into the Serena and soaking in its ambience, views & birding opportunities, we had lunch & headed out for  the afternoon Safari. Ominous clouds darkened the sky and it started pouring. Mustafa, our guide took another route and avoided the eye of the storm. What a gift that turned out as we saw two handsome male lions on the side of the road. As the rain subsided to a drizzle, we got some lovely closeups and portraits of this handsome male lion. We then went in search of the cubs.

The rains almost played spoilsport as we met a family of lions with cubs & wondering if it had driven away the cheetah. After a few minutes of that sinking feeling Mustafa suddenly spotted the Cheetah in the distance. There was a surge of excitement. Mustafa maneuvered the Safari vehicle to the road crossing on the other side in the hope that the Cheetah and its cubs would come towards our side. And it slowly started walking towards our side.

At this time the rain started coming down with more purpose and we were forced to close the top down. As I was admiring the gazelles in the horizon some 500 mts away. the cheetah had come really close to the road & to where we were stationed. I whirled around to look at the cheetah which is when I sensed it moving. The Cheetah too had seen the gazelles and was planning dinner. I found myself screaming, “She’s moving – going for the kill”. The next thing I knew, the top of our Safari vehicle had flown open & I heard Kalyan screaming on the top of his voice “Shoot, Shoot, Shoot”! As the adrenalin took over Kalyan, Abhilash & I became possessed as our cameras started emanating rapid machine gun like shots as we tried to capture as much of the action as we could.

The cheetah shot like a rocket towards the gazelles. The gazelles were all scrambling madly but one of them had fallen prey to the incredible burst of speed that the cheetah had. It was all over in the next minute and a half or so. Then we saw the cheetah emerge with a Tommy in its mouth and it moved a little away from the kill spot and called out for its cubs. The playful cubs came prancing towards their mother. They will have a proper dinner today. As the cubs start to eat, the gazelle kicked involuntarily a few times and even raised its head. It is then we realized that the cheetah had not killed it’s prey  completely  in order to train the cubs right from this tender age (few months old) the art of eating and killing. One of the startled cubs ran away as much as 10 feet away when the gazelle moved.

It was finally story over for the gazelle as it breathed its last and there is this sense of sadness as to how nature works in these cases. But that is how this natural ecosystem works and the circle of life continues. Finally we  notice the rain on us and we close the Safari top down.

The excitement started to subside. We start breathing normally and we start reviewing the pictures we have taken.  We got the best hunting pictures ever – that too in silhouettes! On the drive back to the Serena we opened Tuskers to celebrate and contemplated silently on what we had just been through. Not only had we witnessed something completely special, we had also captured these special moments. A sense of satisfaction seeped into  us as we called it a day.

Cheetah kicking up dust as it negotiates a right hand turn at maximum speed on the way to closing in on its kill..

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There was some serious necking going on with these six giraffes. Offered us an amazing sighting.. Cheetah with her playful cubs on a termite mound in early morning sun the day we left Mara! A 1 hour sighting of the cubs playing & a gift for life!

Getting to Mara is half the fun!

After landing in Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, I got a Kenyan visa on arrival and was received by Chris from the travel company African Horizons. I was immediately whisked to Wilson Airport which houses all the smaller planes that fly out of Nairobi. The weather was pleasant with a tinge of chillness and my anticipation heightened as I saw two Giraffes to the left of the highway as soon as I got out of the airport. We flew Safarilink to the Intrepids landing strip in the Mara on an ATR 72 holding 35. Depending on number of travelers, one can land in a 6 seater even! We returned in a 14 seater toNairobi. Masai Mara cannot be complete without visiting both sides of the Mara river. We stayed at two resorts during our 7 day visit.

Comfy Tents

Mara Fig Tree Camp This Resort is on the Eastern Side of the Mara and is one of many on the Eastern side. It is located on the banks of the Talek River and we had rooms right on the river in Luxury tents with big comfortable bathrooms. The room also offers a view of the Mara at eye level from across the river. We spent 4 nights here.


Mara Serena The only Resort available in the Mara Triangle. Situated on a hillock with a airline seat view of the Mara on the East from every room, it is built in a Masai style and is a classy resort.The Mara Triangle is run by the Mara Conservancy and occupies the western side of the Mara river. The Triangle is the more scenic of the two, better run and has lesser crowds due to the paucity of resorts. While a few vehicles alone will have to take the onus on tracking key sightings, the rewards are rich in that the crowds are lesser. We spent 3 nights here. Note: Both Resorts offer a variety of bird sightings and is a delight for birders.

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The Masai Mara completely blew me away in every facet & totally fulfilled my expectations. The wide open spaces with exotic species grazing at leisure just made for a potent combo. In addition, comfortable weather, great accommodations, comfortable safari drives, an excellent guide/driver in Mustafa, and an outstanding photography guide in Kalyan added up to make this trip a truly memorable one. This is one place I see myself being a lifelong visitor as long as health, time and money permit. – Vijay Ramanathan, Oct 2011 All images © Vijay Ramanathan, 2011. vijay.ramanathan@gmail.com


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Is it me or does time travel faster as I get older? 2011 is gone already! However, it was largely significant. I hung up my boots on Corporate life for the 2nd time this Jan for multiple reasons personal and otherwise. I took some time off before I got together with an ex-colleague to start a Telecom Research & Advisory firm – Convergence Catalyst in August. The name embodies the concept of Convergence in the Technology and personal gadgets front and my long standing fascination with respect to how technology from today (that was a big deal a few years back but we take for granted today) has far reaching impacts on our every day lives. I also managed a few high quality trips doing wildlife photography through the year (would have liked to have managed more but am not complaining). Here is a look back at how this year flew by..

January 2011

I closed off my Gurgaon stint with a homely get together at Abhishek & Praneeta’s place. I returned back to Bangalore from my Corporate job in time for Pongal (which I spent in Salem). I did steal a couple of trips to the Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary in Jan before I headed back. I signed up for a Nilgiris birding trip in end Jan with Toehold. We visited Bandipur on our way up to the Nilgiris, spent a few days birding there and stayed in Masinagudi on our way back. I managed some decent images of the Grey Headed Canary Flycatcher and the Nilgiri Flycatcher.

This Gray Headed Canary Flycatcher kept flying on and off this branch & I made that fleeting eye contact on one occasion

February 2011

This month was all about Kartik & Keerthu’s wedding. All I can say is that it was one big affair. I managed to steal a day to Valparai after the reception. A day filled with amazing sightings. I did not manage a trip back until the end of the year (Dec 27).

Keerthu & Karthik after the reception. The wedding photographer took some lovely portraits. We managed one of the family too.

The highly endangered Lion Tailed Macaque are only found in the Western Ghats.

March 2011

I visited Kodi to see Thambu for a couple of days. Managed a few decent landscape shots and sighted the Gray breasted Laughing Thrush among others – a Western Ghats endemic. I managed a Kabini Trip towards the end of March with Jayanth & Giri of Toehold. As Jungle Lodges is almost always sold out, Toehold is a great option. Toehold is a travel & photography company with a difference – they have also been offering some exotic locations over time and these folks are going to do extremely well. I managed some great closeups of the leopard finally!

Mornings in Kodi offers such exemplary views.

Kabini is THE destination in India for sighting leopards.

 April 2011

We spent a few days at BR Hills on our way to Coimbatore to drop off the kids. We stayed at Gorukana, a lovely resort run by the Soligas. While the sightings were slim, we had a great time at the resort. Towards the end of the month, we packed the kids to Hong Kong to see Disneyland. We spent a couple of days at the Disneyland resort hotel and spent the rest of the week at the Hyatt at Kowloon. Needless to say, the kids had a blast!

The kids at Disneyland

Hong Kong from Victoria Peak is breathtaking!

May 2011

We spent Kirin’s birthday in Coimbatore along with a lot of his cousins. I managed some decent portraits of the kids.

Cousins get together for Kirin's 12th birthday

Kirin & Kavya got exposed to their first CSK match. Seen here with Vidya athai having a gala time at the stadium.

June 2011

June was a quiet month. We had a Motoparty in Bangalore. I met Ranga briefly in Yercaud. Jayanth & I started planning our new venture.

Thanks to Shetty. Motorola get togethers continue to happen across the country!

July 2011

July was the time Jayanth & I got serious about starting off and there were more intense discussions on what we should be doing. This was the month Convergence Catalyst was born after multiple walks in neighborhood lakes.

Our logo. After many iterations, arrived at both the name & logo.

August 2011

We did paperwork for registering Convergence Catalyst. It was my school reunion – met some of my classmates after 25+ years! It was also amma’s birthday and we spent it with her in Salem.

SRSHSS. We called our old staff met them in our school. An emotional day for our teachers. I spent my 9th - 12th grade here. There were all so proud of us. Why not? My class produced 12 doctors & 22 engineers! And I paid less than a US dollar/year as fees.

Sitting L-R: Me, Rukku athai, Radha chitti, amma, Siva. Vidya & Steve are standing.

September 2011

Jayanth landed our first project with a PE firm and most of September went towards delivery of that project. Soon after, I boarded a flight in Mumbai to Nairobi to head to the Masai Mara with Kalyan Varma. What a dream trip it was! Exotic species sightings at leisure to our heart’s content. We saw everything – hunting, grazing, eating, mating, sleeping, feeding ..  but missed the Great Migration unfortunately. No regrets as I know that I will be back at Mara. Came back with a ton of pics – put these up in various places selectively. Family and some friends got my personal journal!

Masai Giraffes necking

More Mara pics can be found here (Facebook link) & here (500px)

October 2011

We started doing trips on behalf of work! Kavya got a bicycle for her birthday and we spent her birthday in Salem with grandparents. A bunch of 30 something crazed guys went to a Metallica show at 11 AM for a 8pm concert. Moral – older guys like me should never tag along. The energy was truly unbelievable though 🙂

Kavya with malathi, Rukku & Raji patti

A sea of people - present for one thing only - the Music! What energy!

November 2011

Convergence Catalyst released the first and most comprehensive report on the Tablet Ecosystem in India. Available for download here. I spent most of this month in Salem with amma.

December 2011

We closed this year by spending Xmas week in Salem. I stole a day trip to Valparai and we spent a night in Yercaud with Jayanth/Mona & Bala/Srimoyee. New Year’s was at home – away from the madness.

Rounding off the year at the Skywalk in Yercaud

Here is wishing everyone a fantastic 2012! I sincerely mean it. Hoping that one and all see & experience wonderful things.

Dedication: My heartfelt condolences to my friend Tamilvanan who lost his wife Lucy on Jan 1, 2012. Lucy was diagnosed with Ovarian Cancer in Feb 2011 and went through most of 2011 with chemo treament. Unfortunately her strong will to survive could not outlast the disease. I pray for Tamil & kids to be strong through these really hard times. May Lucy’s soul rest in peace.

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I have been away from blogging for about 10 months now. I got into birding and wildlife photography & for some reason I never came back to blogging.  I went back to a job for 7 months. It is time to blog again.

Am reproducing my first travel post – on Pangong Tso (in Kunzum, a Travel Blog) as I have recently been reliving those memories. We were privileged to have been to heaven and to earth. This place changed everything for me. The below post feels like I wrote this yesterday. Hope you can experience some of what we felt on that day.

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Key facts about Pangong Tso

  • ~ 14,000 Feet above sea level
  • 134 km long
  • Around 5km at the widest point
  • Roughly 6o% of it is in China and the rest in India
  • An Endorheic Lake – meaning it is a closed drainage basin that retains water without any outflows to rivers or oceans
  • The lake freezes completely in the winter in spite of being salt water!

A Dramatic Drive

The Journey

The 150km distance takes around 5-1/2 hours. Getting out of Leh (11,500 feet), the scenery unfolds. Within a short drive, one passes through the summer residence of the Dalai Lama, the beautiful Sindhu Ghat next to the Indus River, the centuries old monasteries of Shey Palace and the  Thiksey Gompa. These monasteries are perched on hilltops offering a place for monks to embark on a life of learning in the most serene environments. Then comes the climb into Zingral, ChangLa; the descent into Dubruk, TangTse, Lukung & finally Pangong Tso.

Permits & Checkpoints

As travelers begin the climb up the mountains, the first of the few checkposts await the traveler (both ways) to ensure the BRO know who travel in this remote terrain in the event of breakdowns or other unforeseen events. The permits are issued by the Leh Tourism department for a nominal fee.

The Terrain gets interesting

Climbing further towards the Chang La pass, the terrain starts unravelling itself. Before one realizes, travelers quickly gain altitude. The views offered parallel those looking out of a plane window. Mountainous terrain – rough, smooth, carved – all worn with time, offer innumerable visual combinations along with ever-changing skies. Extremely beautiful moments, too fleeting in time to remember all.

Remoteness Personified

Chang La3rd highest motorable road in the planet! An army outpost, requiring one to climb 17,500 feet before  descending to 14,000 feet to reach Pangong. (According to a prior Kunzum post, Chang La is technically the 2nd highest motorable road.)

Valleys – Winding down below Chang La, travelers drive through valleys – surrounded by mountains everywhere. The scenery changes every kilometer of the journey!

Streams – 108 kms from Leh, one reaches the town of TangTse. A checkpost awaits along a stream and army barracks. Noodles and tea warm travelers – the  last stop before eternity.

Vastness – In this vastness and beyond, one feels like the speck that they are in this Universe. Sceneries to behold forever.

Almost There

Poetic License to the BROSaftey signs line up the entire route into Pangong Tso. Some are downright cheeky (Darling I love you, but not so fast), others have bad grammar, even spelling mistakes. The Border Roads Organization (BRO) must be commended not only for maintaining motorable roads, but, for also sharing their wisdom through safety signs with a quirky sense of humor. On descending Chang La, the latter part comprises incredible valley drives with Yaks, wild Horses, Marmots, Birdlife, Pashmina Sheep dotting the scenery. One almost wishes that this would never end. As these thoughts emerge, the below signboard heightens the anticipation for travelers.

Pangong Tso – Surreal!

The pictures speak for themselves. This is what one will see on arriving..

Eternal Memories

Epilogue: Can this be for Real?

I cannot get over the lingering memories of Pangong Tsoeven though it has been 2 months since we returned from Ladakh. The lucky ones who have made the long and arduous trek to this “Heaven on Earth” will truly understand what I mean. One had to have been there to relate to what I am saying, as a life changing moment transcends one into another world. Words simply cannot do justice to this incredible creation that we were privileged enough to have seen. And thankful to have the good fortune to tell everyone about the splendidness that is Pangong Tso. An expanse of water spanning 134 km long and 5 km wide at it’s widest point, surrounded by the most rugged terrain. Imagine this – a visual extravagance as far as the eye can see, pin drop silence, the clouds sifting continuously – one can see the same view differently based on the skies and cloud formations every few minutes! A sense of calm seeps in all the way to the soul. For someone not believing in religion as it is preached in it’s current form, but having the modesty to realize that there is some force behind all this, I ask of this creator – if there was one, “What were you thinking when you made this?” Am I glad of the outcome!

Pangong Tso is real after all!  Having left Pangong Tso reluctantly (however contented) after a brief stay, I wish the same as my spouse – to return one day and relive those glorious memories! In the meanwhile, I have brought back with me, eternal memories that provide solace, and take me to this unique place whenever I seek solitude and peace.

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The above post was originally published in Kunzum on Oct 30, 2009. Even though it has been a year and a half since our Ladakh trip, it still triggers fond memories on many occasions as it is unlike any other place we have encountered. It was painstaking to see Ladakh ravaged in 2010 by floods. Restoration status and facts about the cloudburst can be read on this link. Hope we would have the privilege of visiting Ladakh once again in the near future.

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My wife surprised me a few months ago when she gave a tech gift for our anniversary. I was touched by it because she had given enough thought to give me something that I would find exciting. I got an Eye-Fi card, a WiFi enabled memory card for cameras that automatically backs up your photos on your hard drive and to a designated photo sharing website using a WiFi connection.

Apparently, wireless photo sharing is quite the rage in the US but it has not quite caught on in India. Thanks to a number of cousins in the US, the latest gadgetry always seems to find it’s way home when it is not easily available in India:) The advent of WiFi on SD memory cards gave rise to a world of new use cases. Wireless photo sharing and backup has got to be one of the most popular use cases for WiFi enabled memory cards.

How does Eye-Fi help end users ?

The Eye-Fi card does the following for an end user –

  • Transfer files automatically to a specified location in the hard drive of a computer/laptop
  • Transfer files automatically to a photosharing website such as Flickr or Picasa
  • Users can choose to backup all files taken in their camera or do selective transfers

However, I got gifted the base 2GB card meant for Home use and this card has limitations as it can transfer JPEG images alone. For someone who shoots primarily in the RAW format, this is a big disappointment.Despite the shortcomings, I am excited with the product and have started shooting RAW+JPG!

To really get all the capabilities of Eye-Fi cards, one needs to go up the memory curve. Here are all the other things the range of Eye-Fi cards can do –

  • Upload Videos of the most popularly used formats (4GB, and 8GB Pro X2)
  • Upload RAW image files (8GB Pro X2)
  • Geotagging the location of pictures using a triangulation of WiFi signals in the area (4G Explore and 8GB Pro X2)
  • AdHoc Transfers enables user to upload to their computer without a WiFi router using a camera to laptop wireless connection (8GB Pro X2)
  • Endless Memory mode will automatically free up space after backing up photos (8GB Pro X2)

There is even an iPhone app (available free for Eye-Fi users) to backup and share pictures taken on the iPhone!

This truly is a comprehensive list of features to simplify wireless sharing & backup of media between gadgets, computers and the Internet. A true convergence of hardware, software, transport and application! If you are someone who appreciates innovative products that help simplify things in your life, go get one for yourself and see what I mean.

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Evening Clouds

Lately, I am geting to see rather amazing evenings from my balcony. Ever since I upgraded the lens in my old 6MP Nikon D50, I see the world literally with new eyes. I am technically not the best photographer and the pictures below will show hand shakes. While not perfect, it is the composition I am thrilled about.

As dusk settles, it gets more dramatic..



It is then I notice the Quarter Moon. The combination of the Moon with the refractions of the evening sky made for these awesome pictures below.


Happened in my backyard.. er.. Balcony

Happened in my backyard.. er.. Balcony

in landscape too..

in landscape too..


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Another year passes – triumphing good over evil. The economy is back. Seemed a little more festive this year. We converged in Cyril’s place – Six families, Plenty of kids, smiles all around.

The kids had a blast literally – even though it was mostly the colorful night time stuff added with just a few crackers. Glad that it was uneventful, amidst all the firecrakers around us. Happy Deepavali!

Spew of colors from a Flowerpot variation

Spew of colors from a Flowerpot variation

Two is better than one!

Two is better than one!

Launched into Space!

Launched into Space!



Grand Ending - the 2000 rages on..

Grand Ending - the 2000 rages on..

Muthu, Cyril, Vijay - enjoying a laugh

Muthu, Cyril, Vijay - enjoying a laugh

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After the finish of the Cyclothon, DesiTara put up some Musical Shows along with some BMX stunts to entertain the crowds.

There were some Rappers on stage having a blast.


The BMX stunt bikers were for Manipur and it apparently took them 3 days to get to Bangalore! A bunch of young kids, they did some pretty cool stunts.


Great acrobatics

Off the ground..

Off the ground..

Full Loop

Full Loop

Maneuvering  in Reverse position

Maneuvering in Reverse position

BMX does a 360

BMX does a 360

It was great to be chilling out amidst so many bikers of all ages in all kinds of bikes.The crowds looked satisfied at completing the event and the mood was relaxed all around. I saw this really unique, differnt looking bike with one of the kids watching the BMX show.


We left the venue carrying back some great memories and we are sure to come back next year. Happy cycling!

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